2 Month Anniversary

November 11th marked my 2 month anniversary of arrival in Chiang Mai (CM). Yes, I flew in on the 10 year anniversary of September 11th. This provided a point of reference for some reflection. I am definitely not on a vacation, as we work very hard at school and the work week is long. I would not trade it for anything at this point. I am lucky to have found a job here in Thailand that satisfies me as a career teacher.

So far I have:

Seen most of the attractions in the CM area, traveled to Lao for 10 days, motorbiked it to the "rooftop of Thailand," met some amazing people, met some not so great people. Moved twice, only lost my cool in public once (Biggest no- no in Thai culture, but if you have been reading my blog that was the week I experienced the "Wrath of Thailand." So hopefully it's forgivable). Managed to not die on the motorbike (just knocked on some wood). Found out that I have a congenital anomaly (birth defect) in 2 parts of my spine, experienced Loy Krathong, lost about 6 kilos
(approx 12 lbs) and I have no idea why- ride my motorbike everywhere and I eat, a lot. Learned about Buddhism. Reaffirmed that I do in fact believe in Karma. Gotten lost more than I care to admit, but found some cool places as a result. Started to pick up some Thai (nit noi), played in the river with elephants, and hung out with 3 full grown male tigers.

I am sure there are details I am missing, but not too shabby for 60 days.

Although I am very much a foreigner here I am becoming more comfortable with this, it helps to make some Thai friends, and find a few decent Farangs ;)

The most important thing happening is the development of my independence. There are days where I am lonely, and moments that I long for home or the people that I love and miss. These moments are fleeting compared to what I am gaining from this experience, and for that I am thankful.

Learning How to Take Care of Myself in a Foreign Land

Upon return from Lao I found myself in a pretty low place. So I had been here for about a month and a half, and thought I had made this great group of friends, was establishing a life and routine, and then it all kinda came crashing down. I think those nights I cried myself to sleep weren't just about the people I was with, but the fact that I live in SE Asia now and it isn't always easy. As those who are close to me know, I tend to repress, so when it finally comes out it's usually not just about the one thing. On the flip side of that this was a healthy thing, I needed to feel it so I can move forward.
When I first arrived, everyone I talked to told me this would happen: "It might be 2 or 3 months, but eventually it will hit you that you actually live here. You will totally freak out, then it will get past it and you will be okay. Everyone goes through it." OKay so I think this was mine. Or at least I hope that was it.
That first week back from break I just sort of kept to myself. Ate lunch in my room, or off campus, and was overall just pretty bummed out, homesick, and lonely. Don't feel sorry for me. This is what I signed up for and it was bound to happen. Chances are it won't be the last time, but at least the initial realization I am not on vacation, and I actually LIVE here has passed.
So what did I do? Skip my favorite holiday- Halloween, and run away to Doi Inthanon- the highest mountain in Thailand.

Somehow I knew this was what I needed, and it truly was. Once I got there I realized what it was I was searching for- to reconnect with Thailand. I was so caught up in the problems I was having with people around me I forgot why I am really here.

Thursday night I packed up my bags, didn't get a wink of sleep (it was just one of those nights I couldn't turn my mind of), and the next day directly from school took off for Chom Thong, and Doi Inthanon National Park. I had made arrangements to stay in a small hut near the park for 400 bht/ night (that's about 12 bux),In the end the owner considered me a friend and gave me a considerable discount. The directions had been translated in Thai from the owner (Nok) to my assistant, to me, so unfortunately when I arrived I could not find the place. I rode through Chom Thong a few times looking for the proper landmarks, and with no success pulled over off the main highway. This was all it took to remind me why I love Thailand so much. A family- literally 6 people came running out to me on my bike to help. None of them spoke much English but through some hand gestures and broken Thai I managed to tell them what I was looking for. Before I had the chance to offer up my mobile the woman had her phone out and was calling the resort. (I knew I couldn't because the owner didn't really speak English). They told me to go to "Tesco/ Lotus" which is like Safeway/ Costco, and wait. Soon a young man on a motorbike met me there and I followed him to the resort. This is the sort of "go out of your way for a complete stranger" culture that I love so much about Thai people. At this point I was instantly reminded why I am here, and came back to a happy place.
I arrived at the "Forest Lanna Resort" and they instantly showed me to my "hut" and took me straight to have dinner. I learned a little about the owner her name is "Nok" and we became fast friends. She instantly liked me once she found out I was a single woman who rode my bike 50 km alone from Chiang Mai. Funny how the first two women I met on my trip (the first at the house that gave me directions) asked the same thing- "You have a boyfriend?" Me- "No" "You have a girlfriend?" Me- "No" "You ride motorbike all by yourself" Me- "Kha" (Yes). "Okay- We friend." Always a positive to be commended for being an independent woman.
I retired to my hut, settled in a bit, caught up on some reading and had a good night's rest. Slept especially hard as I hadn't slept at all the night before.

The next morning I got up for breakfast and coffee at Lanna, then headed up the mountain to Doi Inthanon. 40 kms to reach about 7,000 ft above Sea Level. Admission to the park is 200 Bht for foreigners, but if you have a work permit in Thailand they charge you the Thai price. I paid 60 Bht. The ride was cold, and not really all that much fun. It's been a while since I have felt like I was in Oregon. In this case it was not nostalgic. I powered through and my bike and I made it to the top.
The two temples near the summit were built by the Thai Air Force, and are called the Napamaytanidol Chedi. These temples were built to honor the King and Queen in 1987 and 1992. The one to honor the queen offered an especially interesting history of Siddhartha and the first female monk. I am still learning about Buddhism and am in no way familiar with the role women have played in it's history so I found this particularly enlightening.
The mist cleared and came back off and on, but offered some glimpses of the valley bellow. It was beautiful. I wandered through and around the temples, botanical gardens, and walked by a Thai officer who yelled "Hello, I love you!" I just laughed and smiled. Pretty sure if I had responded he wouldn't have known what to say anyway ;) People were kind, and there weren't too many tourists so that was nice.
My bike was low on gas, so I chugged it up to the summit, took a pic, and headed back down. About half way back to Lanna I stopped in a small village to refuel and stumbled upon a particularly breathtaking waterfall. It was not easy to get to, but I ditched my stuff and made my way as close as possible along the slippery limestone.
The rest of the afternoon I made stops here and there exploring villages, the countryside, and a few waterfalls/ rapids.
That evening I went to the south end of Chom Thong and had a particularly memorable experience. I found my way to a temple visible from the road with a HUGE golden statue of "he who rest" on the side of the mountain. I have seen this same monument in other places but not to this scale. So I wound through the village and eventually made my way up. I met some Thai people and they invited me to participate in evening prayers with them. It was a really amazing experience and gave me a sense of peace that I can't really explain. Monks were chanting and singing in the background and the sun was setting.

Yep, this is why I came to Thailand.

Lao Lao- Same Same

For out October break I spent 9 days in Lao with 4 Canadian girls, 3 of which are teachers at NIS. You learn a lot about people when you travel with them. This group has much more experience traveling than I do, and are all very tight knit. It was apparent within the first few days that I was the outcast for various reasons.

We began our trip by flying into Luang Prabang from Chiang Mai. I instantly fell in love with LP. It is so calm and laid back. Immediately upon arrival we all felt a release of the stress of CM, and found ourselves at an amazing guest house right on the river.

The morning after we arrived we got up at 5 am to participate in the offerings to the monks that come around the city. You kneel down and offer each monk that comes around sticky rice. These offerings are for the people's ancestors. The locals all participate, and foreigners are invited to join as well.

That morning I just happened to wake up with food poisoning but I was determined not to miss this cultural experience so directly after I went home and spent the morning sleeping it off. By noon I was all good and met back up with the group.

We went to an Aussie bar to watch the New Zealand vs. Australia Rugby semi- final. It was crazy. I was along for the ride as an "All Blacks" fan (that's their team name), and there was lots of heckling going on. Pretty sure if the group I was with had been dudes they would have been punched out...

I found myself quite embarrassed by peoples obnoxious, belligerent behavior and went for a walk to see a temple and take a break. After the game we went to another bar and the rest of my group was so drunk they went home and passed out by 7 pm. Being in a conservative Buddhist country I just felt like I did not want to be associated with this type of behavior. I had made some other friends by then, so we went and had some dinner. Followed by drinks and a trip to the infamous after- hours disco tech and bowling alley. In Lao the bars have to close at 11:30 pm by law so this is the only place you can still go out. I negotiated a tuk tuk to take us down from 20,000 kip to 8,000 kip. After that I was known as the "negotiator" of the trip- especially with my new friends I made along the way. We had loads of fun and I returned home late.

The following day all but one of us went to the waterfall outside of town. It was absolutely beautiful. The water was clean and clear, but tinted a shade of light green from the limestone. While swimming there were these little shrimp that would nibble on your dead skin. I had a burn from the week before in CM from a motorbike and they went right for it- eeeeee it was the weirdest feeling.

After spending a wonderful day at the waterfall we returned back to town, and hung out at a great spot for dinner and hookah called Eutopia. If you ever find yourself in LP I highly recommend. While there I negotiated a decent price for a private van to take us over the mountain to Vang Vieng- still the group of us 5 girls. We had heard various horror stories from other tourists about it taking 8- 12 hours when it's supposed to 5-6. Crazy people, horrible experiences on the curvy mountain roads, etc. So we decided it best to pay a bit more and have a reliable source of transportation. All went smooth and the journey was approx 6 hours with a few stops on the way. (viewpoints, food, bathroom breaks). Def worth paying for.

After checking into the hostel we spent the evening out and about. It was lots of fun and we ran in to people that were on the same path as us and we had met in LP.

The next day we went to tubing.

OKay so here's the thing about Vang Vieng. It is not a very big town and it pretty much exists because of the tourism that comes from the tubing that takes place on the river. There are bars all along this river near town, so people rent inter-tubes, get wasted, and get into this very fast moving water. When you get near to the next bar they throw out a rope with a plastic bottle attached that basically hits you in the face and you have to scramble to pull yourself in and climb up without losing the inter-tube. This sounds ridiculous enough, but combine that with buckets of liquor, free shots at each bar, and people using car paint to stencil paint their bodies. In the last three months 20 people have died here.

In the recent past floods washed away all the structures and bars along the river. the town decided to rebuild- clearly because really that is what their economy is based on. Without the tourism there isn't much else. It is such a contradiction though. You are in a Buddhist, communist country and have this place that attracts the most obnoxious, rude, drunk backpackers around. The river was so beautiful but I am sure most people are too wasted to even care about their surroundings. I am fine with having experienced this once, but I will not ever be returning to Vang Vieng.

The next day- our last one in vang Vieng we rented mountain bikes and rode out of town to the caves and Blue Lagoon. It was truly mountain biking. Now how I am not a bike person to begin with. I like to hike, run, walk, but find bikes enjoyable. Why anyone would enjoy riding up hills and being on roads that are so bumpy it hurts your neck and head from all the impact is beyond me. I found it quite miserable, but will say the effort was worth the pay off in views of the countryside, caves, and the lagoon. That evening we headed back and I just kind of did my own thing, and went to bed early as my back was hurting from all the biking, climbing and hiking.

While out in the countryside we met an amazing man named "P" and he is a monk who has traveled all over the world. He lived in the Jungle in Thailand for many years and walked from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, and then to Chiang Rai. He now teaches English at a local village school with the Hmong people (It means Mountain People). He invited us to come to the school and play with the children.

We arrived at the school and after driving through the village it was clear these people live off the land, and don't have much else. They are happy and very hard working. It is hard to remember not to be judgmental as a westerner, and think "oh these poor people.." This is their way of life and it should be respected. Who are we to judge? Having the opportunity to teach these children and play with them was invaluable and something I will never forget. There truly are no words.

That day we made it back to Luang Prabang and this is when things started to get pretty tense between me and the rest of the group. I had overheard some unkind words, and really just felt like I was with the "Mean Girls." That first night back I couldn't even stomach eating my dinner and just went back to my room crying myself to sleep. The next night one of the girls got so belligerently drunk that she decided to confront me to tell me she didn't like me, and was going to punch me out. Making a huge scene in the bar. It was beyond mortifying. A guy who had joined our group even asked me- "Why are they so mean to you?" So I really don't think I was being over sensitive. Oh well. Live and Learn. There is a reason why people always talk about being careful with who you travel with.

So for the last day or so I did my own thing. Wandered around the city. Climbed to the temple at the highest point overlooking Luang Prabang, took a sunset cruise on the Mekong River. Then went to the night market to buy some street food for dinner (as I was on a tight budget by the end of the trip). As I was walking down the street a Lao man called out to me "You look so happy!" It reminded me that I was still enjoying this trip and making the best of it. I am a pretty independent person so maybe I am just meant to travel alone.

That last night I ran into a girl I had met at The Elephant Nature Park in CM, and her and a group of guys met up with me at Eutopia. We relaxed had a beer, and smoked hookah. It was delightful and left me feeling content with the end of my trip.

Next day it was back to CM. I came home, and slept. Then the next day rode my bike up the mountain to Doi Suthep which is a temple that is at the top of the mountain overlooking CM. It was a bit too touristy for me, but the view was worth it. I didn't want to just rest all day because I was tired from vacation and afraid I would sleep all day and make it even more difficult to get back into the routine of returning to school the next day.



Most people don't know that Lao is the most bombed country in the history of the world. I certainly didn't. There is still evidence today, and if you are interested in learning more I encourage you to do some research. Just goes to show how many things go on in the world we don't have a clue about.

Overall I am truly happy I had the opportunity to travel to Lao and would go back to Luang Prabang anytime. Fell in love with that city, the people, and their culture. I think there is much truth when people say it is the best of SE Asia. Just be careful who you travel with ;)

Scratching the Surface

When I first arrived one of the Teachers at NIS said something to me that has really stuck. He told me "Thailand is all about appearances, but once you scratch the surface it's a different story." As I spend more time exploring and paying attention to things that aren't always in plain sight, I am noticing this more and more.

Disparity in wealth.
Notice the photos to the right. I lived here for almost 2 weeks before I noticed this first set of basically shacks and realized people live there. I drive by it everyday and it is just across the street from a bustling shopping center and billboards everywhere that advertise luxury living. On the surface this is all I noticed, but when I looked a little closer this is what I saw. It was actually the night/ morning that my bike broke down and I had to walk 2 hours home. Who knows how long it would have taken me to notice otherwise.
The second photo I took while exploring side roads down by the river one afternoon on my motorbike. I stopped to look at a beautiful scene of mountains and trees, and upon closer inspection came across this... I don't even know what you would call it. Small shelter maybe? Clearly someone had been or was still living there.
The third photo is of a middle class house nearby, this is what you mostly see. As nice moobans (housing developments) are in plain view and advertised everywhere. Places like the first two photos are more tucked away.

For a country that has so much disparity in wealth it was shocking to me when I found out I make 8 times the average wage of Thai person. By US standards my salary in dollars is alright, but here it is very high. Granted I do work hard, but still. Most people think of Thailand as beautiful beaches, jungle, and happy, friendly accommodating people. This is all true, but there is a lot more to life here than meets the eye. Life is hard for people living in poverty anywhere in the world. It's just amazing how the appearance on the surface and what you actually find once you dig a little deeper are not a match.

My most recent favorite example is the other day I was on my way home and realized to block the view of the central prison (which I just happen to live next to) there is a HUGE sign advertising culture, food and tourist attractions. You wouldn't even know the prison was there unless you stopped to read the finely printed "Chiang Mai Central Prison" sign, or peeked behind the sign to see the barbed wire and expansive prison walls.

We are talking about a place that regulated opioids so strongly you can bearly get a pain pill to save your life, yet Crystal Meth (which comes in the form of pills, and is known as "yabba" is everywhere.

Abortion is still illegal, and the teen pregnancy rate is sky rocketing. Yet every pharmacy you walk into there are birth control pills on display and condoms at 7-11 right next to the register. I'm gonna go ahead and guess that this is due to a lack of education and a conservative society which creates social stigma. In a conservative Buddhist country these things are very taboo, yet these ideals are not keeping up with reality. This means women with unwanted pregnancy's (with the exception of cases where the mother's life is at risk, or it was a rape) are forced to go to illegal clinics where they often end up with infections or other complications and must be hospitalized.

Now do not mistake me pointing out these issues as getting on my high horse and preaching about what is wrong with this country. We all know that the US has plenty of flaws. I am merely pointing out the things I have noticed or read about and am either trying to understand, or at least be aware of.

For now it is about figuring this place out, and trying to understand a culture that is very different. Sometimes it's really difficult to be the foreigner, and at times it even gets to me. Being called "Falang" everywhere I go is something I find slightly offensive, and I am still not sure if I should or not. There's just something about not understanding anything people are saying but knowing when you hear "falang" they are talking about you. Maybe I will get used to it, or maybe just need to keep my headphones on when I am feeling particularly on display. Either way it's good for me. I think everyone should have this feeling at least once in their life. Especially westerners (and by that I mean white people). I think we would all be a lot kinder to each other if we knew what it feels like to be on the other end as a minority.

I will leave you with one example of logic here- which on the surface seems to be a lack there of, I am baffled by things like this on a daily basis. This is not to say people in Thailand, or even Asia don't have common sense. It is a different culture so who am I to judge- a better approach is to try to understand and learn. However, I did get a good laugh out of this:

One of the teachers at school told me a story about how the fire department came to talk to her class last year. They were discussing fire safety. They told the children that if their house is on fire to get down on the ground, find a plastic bag, and tie it over their head.

Yep.

Making Friends and Exploring

It took me a few weeks to get settled and make some new friends. In a way I think this was best. I was able to figure things out and find my independence. Once I started hanging out with some lovely ladies from Canada (you know who you are), it started to feel like I am going to have a real life here, and that was reassuring. Being so far away from home and everything familiar it is difficult not to have a support network. Of course I did not expect to arrive and have it happen overnight, but I am lucky to have met some amazing people.

while out and about exploring I ran into another teacher from school who is from the Philippines. Her and I hit it off very well, and I have recently made a new friend from Burma.

I have been exploring the countryside, temples, Old City and a few bars here and there ;) Everyone kept telling me that in order to go to the attractions outside of the city I needed to hire someone to drive me. Well due to my stubbornness, independent nature, and possibly a little naivety I decided to take my bike out to Mae Sa falls and Tiger Kingdom about 25 km outside of Chiang Mai. As a new driver I was very careful but it was fine and at no point did I feel unsafe. There is something about having the freedom to do the things you want, whenever you want that is so satisfying. I think it's called independence ;)

The Floods

The photos pretty much speak for themselves. The Mae Ping River is way beyond flood stage, and remains that way. Notice how close the river is to the bridge? That is not normal. People's homes and businesses were flooded and for that I only have empathy. We did get a three day weekend due to the flooding, but it's hard to brag about when it meant people having to deal with all this.

The school that did the Nazi demonstration is the one you see under 4 feet of water. Most westerners immediate reaction to this is: Karma.

http://www.bangkokpost.com/lite/topstories/258603/nazi-themed-sports-march-sparks-outrage

I think it's a bit of both. Celebrating Nazi's is never a good thing. My Mom brought up a really good point though- How many wars and mass genocides go on all over the world that we have no clue about? I don't think Thai people would intentionally do this, but it is something that has happened before, and they had to have done research!

When I arrived here all everyone was talking about is the rain. It has been raining non- stop and continues.

This link pretty much sums it up:

http://asiancorrespondent.com/66090/flooding-threatens-chiang-mai-thailand/

Hoping things get better before they get any worse. One good thing is there are NO tourists here right now, which makes exploring nice.

The Wrath of Thailand

It's all fun and games until you get your first cold, food poisoning session, and have back problems flaring up... All within 4 days.

It Started on Thursday of my second week. I got up that morning and as I was attempting to get ready for school could barely move, my back hurt so bad. Okay, so this makes sense seeing as I just flew half way across the world. So instead of going to school I went to a hospital. I waited until 8 am to see the doctor, and after examining me he admitted me to the ER and they doped me up with some sort of pain killer. (They are very stingy in this country about that, so most narcotics are only available once you are admitted to the hospital, ironic since Opium is produced in this region- but more about that in a later post). So long story short someone from school came to pick me up and take me back to my apartment. Didn't think hopping on the motorbike would be such a great idea. I went home and slept. Later that day two staff members who barely know me went back to the hospital after school to pick up my bike and delivered it to my home! So very kind. The following week I made sure to bring them treats to show my gratitude.

So then Thursday night I realized I had a cold coming on. I messaged my teaching partner to let her know it could go either way and I would let her know in the morning. Sure enough I woke up sick as can be. As you may already know I get sick. A lot. However, when I arrived teachers were dropping like flies, kids were all sick, and everyone has been blaming the rain. Needless to say no school for me on Friday.

Saturday morning my back was still killing, and I was having an allergic reaction to the medication that was first prescribed to me. I returned to the hospital I had been seen at, only to find a different doctor. He sent me for an x-ray and once we got the result back he let me know I have a congenital anomaly (essentially a birth defect). The part that connects your spine to your pelvis is abnormal on one side. On top of this the space between my bottom vertebrae is smaller than the ones above (but it's supposed to be the largest. Therefore the nerves do not have the proper amount of space (maybe that's why I have been in so much pain?!), also my spine tilts to the right, and I still have sprained muscles from the car wreck in May.

Okay so I am only going to get on my soap box a little here, but HOW many doctors did I see in the US?! More than a dozen. Did any of them do an X-Ray? Nope. Has anyone ever bothered to figure this out? Nope. I am 26, and it took coming to Thailand to figure this out. We think we are so advanced and great... ok, stopping there.

Well this particular doctor recognized all this, but told me basically too bad and sent me on my way. Now, I am fully aware of the cultural norm here that says the worst thing you can do is get upset in public. Keep in mind here I just found all this out, was exhausted, and still sick, and he wasn't going to help me at all...

Let's just say I will not be showing my face in that hospital again, and knowing Thai culture even if I did they would smile, nod, and never actually help me again.

I left and went to another hospital that comes highly recommended, but is known for being more expensive. I saw a doctor there, he had to do another x- ray, and he actually came up with a treatment plan including medicine for the nerve pain, physical therapy, and yoga.

After spending Thursday, Friday, and all of Saturday daytime in the hospital I decided to venture out for dinner to meet up with a friend who was visiting from Bangkok. We chose a Burmese restaurant. Followed by a tour of the bars in the more touristy area. I drank very little as I was still a bit sick and planning to ride my bike home. There is no such thing as a drunk driving law in this country, but common sense prevailed. It turned in to a pretty later night, just two girls chatting for hours. On my way home I was so concerned with not getting lost, or killed, I neglected to pay attention to the fact that my gas tank was on empty. The good news is I knew where I was at the time. The bad news is I had to ditch my bike and walk 2 hours to get home.

A few hours after I made it home, and fell asleep I awoke to the horrific experience of food poisoning in Thailand. I will not go in to details, but you can imagine.

By Monday I had my bike back. I was still a bit fatigued and could pretty much only eat crackers, but made it to school and was happy to greet a new week.

"We Are All Running From Something"

It doesn't matter how far around the world you travel, you can't escape what's in your head. After just a few days here I began having the most vivid dreams. Some where pleasant, but most were filled with intense emotions. Sadness, guilt, loss, and mostly anger. This was often directed at people from my recent past. Not necessarily significant people in my life, but a manifestation of the emotions I am feeling- and the place I have left behind. At least this is my theory.
We go through our days suppressing how we feel in order to just get through the day. Then when we are able to come home, or find a safe place to lay down those feelings and thoughts are still there. It comes out in various ways, and for me it is often very suppressed. This is all magnified here, especially since it is all new and so very foreign.

When I first arrived I had a long conversation with Lani about traveling, and how I have always felt I am meant to live abroad. Living in Spain the only time I experienced culture shock was when I returned Stateside. Now I realize Thailand and Spain are apples and oranges, but this gave me a sense that Travel is in my blood, and it needs to be a part of my life. I told her this, and that I wanted to make sure it wasn't because I was running away. Her reply was "oh honey, we are all running from something here." I believe there is truth to that, and with each farang I meet I can't help but wonder.

For now, embrace this experience and just roll with the ups and downs is all I can do. The trade off for the hard days is this once in a lifetime experience, and adventures beyond anything I have ever imagined.

The day I arrived, Kate the assistant principal at NIS picked me up from the airport in her car. The drive to Lani's was bat shit crazy. Although I was thoroughly terrified and she was talking a million miles a minute- trying to give me as much advice as possible (which I do appreciate); all I could do was look over the rice patty fields and the majestic mountains, along with the Thai people and buildings thinking, "These are images I have always dreamed of seeing with my own eyes, and here it is right in front of me. It's hard to be excited by it, because I can't believe this is actually real."

It's moments like this that make up for the bouts of homesickness. Whether it's finding someplace all by myself on the crazy Thai roads(if you have ever been here, you know what I am talking about). Riding home and just being in awe of the mountains and lush jungle- each and every time I see them. Making a new Thai, or Philippino, or any other friend. Watching people sell street food, and drive trucks with 10 people piled in the back. These are just a few examples of the images I see here everyday, and although so very new and foreign there is a sense of wonder and excitement that comes along with it. The endless possibilities of exploration and travel that are at my doorstep.

These wonders do not mean that I miss home any less. I miss Trader Joes, and Mac n' cheese, and fall boots, and the leaves changing. I am going to miss Halloween and Thanksgiving. Friends and family are no longer just a phone call or short car ride away. A skype date is better than nothing, but scheduling is limited with the 14 hour time difference.

What I do know is that I will be okay. Sometimes when you are surrounded by large groups of people you feel more lonely than you ever have before. Take it in stride, and look at it as an opportunity to truly get to know yourself. It's amazing what we are capable of, and most of the time we don't even know it.

Getting a Motorbike- "Watch Out, The Yellow Ones Don't Stop"

The title pretty much sums it up. Driving is no joke in this country and especially in Chiang Mai. I have ready many blogs saying "don't learn to ride a motorbike in Chinag Mai, it's not a place for beginners. Well I have no choice. My goal for Saturday was to rent a bike at a monthly rate and get a mobile for use here.

I went downstairs to the lobby at about 8:30am to see if I could get a hold of some coffee. I asked the woman at the front desk if the woman who speaks English was here. I drew a picture of what I needed and next thing I knew I had 5 min to get dressed and go. A man came with a mobile. I showed him the address of a reputable bike shop in town. He called and then handed the phone to me. The man on the other end said "4000 baht/ month" and I said "no, I have been told 2,000- 3,000." He said, "not at my shop, thank you goodbye." So I told the man who was helping me. He called his Thai friend to have him call the shop and see what price they gave a non- falang. It was about the same so we decided to just go to a nearby place. I walked outside with him only to discover all he had was a motorbike- no helmet for him or me. Note: Most Thai people DO NOT wear helmets on motorbikes. So I said a little prayer and hopped on. About 10 minutes later we arrived at an internet cafe/ bike rental shop. They pointed to an automatic- just happens to be pink. I agreed to the price of 3000 baht/ month although it was listed at 3500.

It took me about 30 min to really get the hang of riding. I practiced in a covered parking lot/ side street before I ventured out into traffic.

I got lucky- the Central Mall is right across the street from the bike place so I could get a mobile, french press, and everything else I needed. Well, across the street in Thailand is easier said than done. Most streets are one way and you have to go around to make a u- turn to get back to your destination. Despite being terrified I successfully drove to the mall with two rules in mind: They are out to kill you, and just assume you are invisible. Defensive driving is one way to put it. I am a good driver but this is all very different. When all was said and done I got everything I needed. The sight of Monks at the mall was a new one. Also learned that in public restrooms you have to pay 1 baht to get your toilet paper. Do this BEFORE you use the toilet. Lesson learned. I managed to find my own way home, In fact I was so excited to see the prison, yes I live next to a prison- next to a school, I passed it!

Found my way home again, came back to get my backpack and ride off to Rimping- the main grocery store in town. In the parking lot I ran into the man who helped me and turns out he is the husband of the cook here at my apartment. She didn't know how to help me, so she just called her husband who promptly arrived and was very helpful to me. When we were leaving the bike shop I offered to pay him and was confused when he refused. Made me wonder if he was getting a cut out of the deal. Turns out he is just a kind man.

I have found comfort in various things here. For one thing Thailand has lattes, which is more than I can say for Spain! I LOVE Coke Light and they just don't sell it in the states. You can get as many papayas and mangoes as your little heart desires. Listening to music helps to keep me grounded and I now have season 2 of True Blood. It's the little things.

Night Bazaar

As the school week drew to a close I found myself in my room all alone on a Friday night. With no invitations or plans for the weekend I decided to explore the city a little on my own and check out The Night Bazaar. Chiang Mai is known for it's markets, they tend to be cheaper than other places like Bangkok and Phuket. Although touristy there were still many Thais there, and it is certainly a staple of the city. Through broken English and a few drawings I arranged for a Taxi at 7pm to take me from my room to The Bazaar. I live on the North end of town near the mountains. This has its benefits as it's close to school, but it does not make for easy access to the city unless you have a bike (which I now do, but that story is still to come). I was told no more than 200 baht for a taxi and about the same for a Tuk Tuk*. Taxi was no problem and we agreed on 200 baht upon his arrival. 100 baht= $3.29 US Dollars.

As we cruised through the streets of the city blaring AC/DC I found myself smiling at the nostalgia and excitement. He dropped me off in the center of the Bazaar and I paid him our agreed 200 baht.

Exploring the Night Bazaar was enjoyable. Everything from Dvds for 100 baht (Any title you can imagine!), textiles, knock off bags, Tiffany and Co. Jewelry, Tique wood crafts, etc, etc.

Before I left I looked up how to say how much in Thai, Nee Tao Rai Na(ka or Krub*). This often helps to get a better price. If you use some Thai they assume you are an expat* and not just a Farang* tourist. Often this will help you to get a lower starting price to bargain from. I tested this theory with a Marc Jacobs make-up case. The first booth I went up and asked "How much?" in English. Her starting price was 300 baht. When I went up to another and asked in Thai it was 240 baht. Theory proven.

After an hour or two of wandering around and bargaining I stopped in a cafe to have some dinner. The rule is you go where you see Thai people eating. I ordered a curry soup and people watched. Alone, but content. Next to me was a man drinking beer and chain smoking. On the other side was a Thai couple immersed in each other and nothing more. In front of me where a group of Koreans laughing and enjoying the vibrant atmosphere. My curry just about killed me with heat, but I was paying for it, and had to eat. When the server came to take it away I told her it was hot. She then let me know she had asked the cooks to make it as mild as possible! Looks like I have a long way to go with getting used to both kinds of heat in this country. After my meal and a few beers I decided to negotiate a Tuk Tuk home. They were lined up along the street. When I showed the first driver my address he said "300 baht." I said NO, 200 baht to get here. He replied with "15 clicks on map in Tuk Tuk." So we agreed upon 250.

*Tuk Tuk is a Thai cab (I use the term cab loosely).
*Use Ka for females, and Krab for males.
*Farang refers to a westerner in Thailand. Pronounced Falang
*Expat is short for Expatriate and is a foreigner who lives here.

Photos: Night Bazaar Booths, Thai Couple, View of central part of the Bazaar from where I ate dinner, Tuk Tuks lined up along the street.

Sawadee Ka: The First Week

4:30am Monday morning: I awake feeling pretty good considering. This will not last. I get ready for school only to discover if you don't have ac the few minutes in the shower are your only relief from sweat. I reluctantly ride on Lani's motorbike to a market nearby to be picked up by Emily- PE Teacher, Lawrie- Headmaster, and Lee- New Grade 5 Teacher who arrived Saturday. The motorbike ride was like getting a shot at the doctor- the fear is all in the anticipation. While we waited for the car to pick me up a dog came wandering up to us with it's head literally split open. This has been the hardest thing for me so far. All day I couldn't stop thinking about that dog. Lani offered it a cracker which it ate as we left. Stray dogs are everywhere here. It's hard to tell if they have a care taker. So far they have all been friendly but I don't tempt fate by petting them. There are various organizations that try to help, but the population is huge. I would like to volunteer at "Care for Dogs" which is a shelter. I think I need some more time to adjust though. I can't save them all and I have to live so I can't feed them all either, but it's really tough!

At school I was greeted by friendly faces, and delightful children. My teaching partner's name is Ms. Shafaq. She is from India, and has been at NIS for about a decade. I adore her, and we are a great team so far! The teachers at NIS have been nothing but kind to me. Ms. Lynn came and picked me up for lunch in the Canteen on the first day so I wasn't the awkward "new kid" sitting alone. The food at school leaves something to be desired. It's free for the teachers, but gross most of the time. I keep a cup of noodle in my bag and some dried fruit just in case. Note: This is all I have heard from every teacher at NIS so my expectations for lunch were low to begin with.

I made it until about 11:30am on Monday when my Jetlag hit me like a train and the NIS bus took me back to Lani's. I slept from 2-4:30, ate dinner (Spaghetti, thank you Lani!) and slept again from 7pm- to about 4am.

Tuesday was much better. We took a field trip to Honda. This was already planned before my arrival. The people (as most Thai's are) were very kind, accommodating, and generous. The kids received cookies and ovaltine, and each teacher was presented with a box wrapped in silk and inscribed in Thai.

Our school day is from about 7:30am until 3:30pm. It's a long day, but it is broken up with periods where the children go to different classes- swimming, movement, music, computer, etc. We have lots of built in planning time and my teaching partner is very easy going. Our game plan last week was for me to observe, help out, and get familiar with the curriculum. We split the class into two equal groups at random. We will split into these groups to teach various subjects, but each child will remain in the same class with Ms. Shafaq and myself as their teachers.

By Friday I had my bearings at school, and somewhat of a regular sleep pattern. Missed a few dinners due to a "nap" which just turned in to early bed time. I think my body is more exhausted than I am aware of with all the excitement, so I am trying to let it sleep as much as possible without getting too far off track for a regular sleep cycle.

Wednesday night we went out to dinner- Lani, her brother Robert, his wife Sal, and Their children- one of which is in my class.

It was this perfect Thai dinner on the edge of town complete with an open air covered patio along the river and a fantastic view of the mountains. Heineken flowed freely and we enjoyed each dish over a long period as it came out. I love this country! Unfortunately I had an allergic reaction to the last dish I ate and my body promptly let me know and took care of it by forcing me to throw up. Felt fine after that.
Developed a rash the next day. I have never had food allergies, but this is a different continent so it will take some adjusting.

One great thing about Thailand is you can go into any pharmacy, tell them what's wrong, and they give you something for it. So far every time it has worked. Most pharmacy's have someone who speaks some English and through broken sentences and hand gestures they can diagnose the problem. So far it's been for my back problems, then nausea, and by the end of the week I needed something for the rash. Each time I don't really know what I am taking until I get home and research it, but they have all worked!

On Friday I moved into a room in a full service apartment/ hotel. It's called The Royal Orchid. Ms. Shafaq took me Wed during lunch to look at places near school and this was the third place we went to. It has AC, a king size bed, wireless, full bathroom, a TV with cable (which turned out to be all in Thai with one English channel), and towel service. Most of the women at the desk don't speak any English but they are very kind and have gone out of their way to help me. I like it here. I don't know that I will stay for the whole year, but for now it's close to school- where I spend the majority of my time. It's also a place of my own which feels good. I came here to learn about myself and regain my independence, and this is just the beginning...

Photos: Ms. Shafaq (far right) and our class at Honda, View from parking lot at NIS- rain over the Mountains, A side entrance at NIS. The school is Beautiful! The side road near Lani's, with rice patties everywhere.

Part 1: LA and Arrival

It's Wednesday September 7th around 6pm, my mother is driving me to the airport as I frantically book a one way ticket to LA on my iphone. Last flight out leaves at 7pm and if I do not arrive in LA tonight I will not be getting my visa until next week. Rewind to Tuesday the 6th- finally got my contract from Nakorn Payap International School (NIS) in Chiang Mai to take to the Thai consulate in Portland. Went there only to discover it was closed for the entire week of Labor Day. So I contacted the headmaster at NIS and promptly threw some money at the problem and flew to LA, which is the only other Thai consulate on the US West Coast.

I arrive at the airport and check in to my Southwest Airlines flight at 6:10. Only to discover the connecting flight from PDX to SAC has an hour delay and will not be making it to LA tonight. The woman at the counter stands there staring at her computer screen and endlessly typing... Why do they always do that?! Then as I am trying not to freak out or lose patience she looks at me and says, "There is a flight leaving at 6:34, you have 12 minutes. Run.

So I do. As I get to the gate panting and sweating the agent looks at me and says "Megan?" I nod as he hands me my boarding pass, off I go to LA.

Upon landing around 10:30pm I find a decent hotel for $96/night near the airport, check in and get to sleep.

The next morning I am all business. The consulate in LA accepts Visa applications between 9 and 11:30am, and will process them in 24 hours. In theory this means I will pick up my visa Friday morning and be on the next available flight out to Asia. Well remember that saying I often use, "How do you make God laugh? By making plans..." (Thank you Izza). Yeah, this is one of those times.
I take a $40 cab ride into downtown LA to the consulate. On the way I get to talking with the driver who is from Armenia. He has been in the US for about 7 years and is offering some interesting perspective to someone who is about to be the foreigner. One thing he told me has really stuck. When he first arrived in the US he asked his uncle where are all the people? (He was used to seeing people out and about on the street. His uncle replied "They all live in their cars." Two things really resignated here with me: First, he is right. Second, we see a new place with open eyes and often notice things that others who live there forget about or take for granted.

So he drops me at the Consulate and tells me he can take a 20 min break and if I am in and out quickly I can ride back to the hotel with him for free. (He works for them, so has to return there anyway.) I thank him for his kindness, and hope I will be back in time to take him up on the offer. The bus ride back to the hotel is 2 hours!

I am sure you have already figured out this did not happen. I head upstairs and am greeted by a friendly Thai woman. I tell her what I need, and show her my paperwork. She asks me for my criminal background clearance from Oregon. I say, "what?" I don't have this stupid piece of paper that I need (no one from the school told me, and it's my fault for not doing my homework). SO basically I can only get a tourist Visa with what I have, which does me no good. I am in LA, just spent all this money, the Portland consulate is closed.... You can imagine.

So this sweet older Thai woman who is there for her own purposes offers to take me to the nearest police station. I accept and on the way she offers me bottles of water. So very kind. I get to the LAPD station and tell them what I need. The officer hands me a piece of paper and says, "sorry we can't help you, call this number."

So I walk back to the consulate for about 40 min in 90 degree heat. Did I mention my bag did not arrive in LA with me so I only had my carry on clothes. Dark jeans and a black top. Genius.

It is at this particular point where I almost start to lose my shit. Hot, tired, and not sure this is going to work out. What if I spent all this money only to come to LA for nothing. What if I have to spend the weekend here? Will I still be able to buy a ticket to Thailand? As I am starting to spin I stop myself. "You are a Keach woman. You have been in much worse situations in places that you don't speak the language. This is just the beginning, if you can't figure this out how are you going to survive in SE Asia? Buck up and figure it out. So I did.

I get back to the consulate only to discover the boss man is determined to help me. Through a lot of phone calls and research we discover all I have to do is go online and get my clearance. Ha, who knew?! Easy- seeing as I have no criminal record. It takes 5 minutes and costs $10 bux. He agrees to make the exception and process my Visa same day. Tells me to come back between 3 and 4 and he will have it ready for me. Wanting to kiss him I restrain myself and head around the corner to have some lunch.

I return promptly at 3 pm, sit for about 15 minutes, and off I go Non- Immigrant B Visa in hand.

Long Story short I take a 2 hour bus ride back to The Hotel. The bus driver helps me along the way. We went through every part of LA- Crenshaw, Inglewood, etc. I have two theories about her kindness: Either she was trying to watch my back and help me from getting lost in the wrong part of town. OR she thought I was a complete idiot. Maybe a little bit of both? Either way I made it back to the hotel, ate some Chipotle and prepared to fly out at 1:20pm on Friday to Beijing then to Bangkok and finally Chiang Mai.

The flight all goes smooth. Typical haze of time zone to time zone, and perpetual morning. Spent the night in the Bangkok airport and was greeted by Kate- the NIS assistant principal upon arrival in Chiang Mai. The humidity here hits you like a ton of bricks. She drove me through the city to stay with Lani- NIS Early Childhood Coordinator, and her dog Eddie. We ordered pizza the first night. Exhausted and over- stimulated by my new surroundings I was asleep by 6:30pm.


Photos: Somewhere over Siberia, and Early Morning Bangkok Airport.