"We Are All Running From Something"

It doesn't matter how far around the world you travel, you can't escape what's in your head. After just a few days here I began having the most vivid dreams. Some where pleasant, but most were filled with intense emotions. Sadness, guilt, loss, and mostly anger. This was often directed at people from my recent past. Not necessarily significant people in my life, but a manifestation of the emotions I am feeling- and the place I have left behind. At least this is my theory.
We go through our days suppressing how we feel in order to just get through the day. Then when we are able to come home, or find a safe place to lay down those feelings and thoughts are still there. It comes out in various ways, and for me it is often very suppressed. This is all magnified here, especially since it is all new and so very foreign.

When I first arrived I had a long conversation with Lani about traveling, and how I have always felt I am meant to live abroad. Living in Spain the only time I experienced culture shock was when I returned Stateside. Now I realize Thailand and Spain are apples and oranges, but this gave me a sense that Travel is in my blood, and it needs to be a part of my life. I told her this, and that I wanted to make sure it wasn't because I was running away. Her reply was "oh honey, we are all running from something here." I believe there is truth to that, and with each farang I meet I can't help but wonder.

For now, embrace this experience and just roll with the ups and downs is all I can do. The trade off for the hard days is this once in a lifetime experience, and adventures beyond anything I have ever imagined.

The day I arrived, Kate the assistant principal at NIS picked me up from the airport in her car. The drive to Lani's was bat shit crazy. Although I was thoroughly terrified and she was talking a million miles a minute- trying to give me as much advice as possible (which I do appreciate); all I could do was look over the rice patty fields and the majestic mountains, along with the Thai people and buildings thinking, "These are images I have always dreamed of seeing with my own eyes, and here it is right in front of me. It's hard to be excited by it, because I can't believe this is actually real."

It's moments like this that make up for the bouts of homesickness. Whether it's finding someplace all by myself on the crazy Thai roads(if you have ever been here, you know what I am talking about). Riding home and just being in awe of the mountains and lush jungle- each and every time I see them. Making a new Thai, or Philippino, or any other friend. Watching people sell street food, and drive trucks with 10 people piled in the back. These are just a few examples of the images I see here everyday, and although so very new and foreign there is a sense of wonder and excitement that comes along with it. The endless possibilities of exploration and travel that are at my doorstep.

These wonders do not mean that I miss home any less. I miss Trader Joes, and Mac n' cheese, and fall boots, and the leaves changing. I am going to miss Halloween and Thanksgiving. Friends and family are no longer just a phone call or short car ride away. A skype date is better than nothing, but scheduling is limited with the 14 hour time difference.

What I do know is that I will be okay. Sometimes when you are surrounded by large groups of people you feel more lonely than you ever have before. Take it in stride, and look at it as an opportunity to truly get to know yourself. It's amazing what we are capable of, and most of the time we don't even know it.

Getting a Motorbike- "Watch Out, The Yellow Ones Don't Stop"

The title pretty much sums it up. Driving is no joke in this country and especially in Chiang Mai. I have ready many blogs saying "don't learn to ride a motorbike in Chinag Mai, it's not a place for beginners. Well I have no choice. My goal for Saturday was to rent a bike at a monthly rate and get a mobile for use here.

I went downstairs to the lobby at about 8:30am to see if I could get a hold of some coffee. I asked the woman at the front desk if the woman who speaks English was here. I drew a picture of what I needed and next thing I knew I had 5 min to get dressed and go. A man came with a mobile. I showed him the address of a reputable bike shop in town. He called and then handed the phone to me. The man on the other end said "4000 baht/ month" and I said "no, I have been told 2,000- 3,000." He said, "not at my shop, thank you goodbye." So I told the man who was helping me. He called his Thai friend to have him call the shop and see what price they gave a non- falang. It was about the same so we decided to just go to a nearby place. I walked outside with him only to discover all he had was a motorbike- no helmet for him or me. Note: Most Thai people DO NOT wear helmets on motorbikes. So I said a little prayer and hopped on. About 10 minutes later we arrived at an internet cafe/ bike rental shop. They pointed to an automatic- just happens to be pink. I agreed to the price of 3000 baht/ month although it was listed at 3500.

It took me about 30 min to really get the hang of riding. I practiced in a covered parking lot/ side street before I ventured out into traffic.

I got lucky- the Central Mall is right across the street from the bike place so I could get a mobile, french press, and everything else I needed. Well, across the street in Thailand is easier said than done. Most streets are one way and you have to go around to make a u- turn to get back to your destination. Despite being terrified I successfully drove to the mall with two rules in mind: They are out to kill you, and just assume you are invisible. Defensive driving is one way to put it. I am a good driver but this is all very different. When all was said and done I got everything I needed. The sight of Monks at the mall was a new one. Also learned that in public restrooms you have to pay 1 baht to get your toilet paper. Do this BEFORE you use the toilet. Lesson learned. I managed to find my own way home, In fact I was so excited to see the prison, yes I live next to a prison- next to a school, I passed it!

Found my way home again, came back to get my backpack and ride off to Rimping- the main grocery store in town. In the parking lot I ran into the man who helped me and turns out he is the husband of the cook here at my apartment. She didn't know how to help me, so she just called her husband who promptly arrived and was very helpful to me. When we were leaving the bike shop I offered to pay him and was confused when he refused. Made me wonder if he was getting a cut out of the deal. Turns out he is just a kind man.

I have found comfort in various things here. For one thing Thailand has lattes, which is more than I can say for Spain! I LOVE Coke Light and they just don't sell it in the states. You can get as many papayas and mangoes as your little heart desires. Listening to music helps to keep me grounded and I now have season 2 of True Blood. It's the little things.

Night Bazaar

As the school week drew to a close I found myself in my room all alone on a Friday night. With no invitations or plans for the weekend I decided to explore the city a little on my own and check out The Night Bazaar. Chiang Mai is known for it's markets, they tend to be cheaper than other places like Bangkok and Phuket. Although touristy there were still many Thais there, and it is certainly a staple of the city. Through broken English and a few drawings I arranged for a Taxi at 7pm to take me from my room to The Bazaar. I live on the North end of town near the mountains. This has its benefits as it's close to school, but it does not make for easy access to the city unless you have a bike (which I now do, but that story is still to come). I was told no more than 200 baht for a taxi and about the same for a Tuk Tuk*. Taxi was no problem and we agreed on 200 baht upon his arrival. 100 baht= $3.29 US Dollars.

As we cruised through the streets of the city blaring AC/DC I found myself smiling at the nostalgia and excitement. He dropped me off in the center of the Bazaar and I paid him our agreed 200 baht.

Exploring the Night Bazaar was enjoyable. Everything from Dvds for 100 baht (Any title you can imagine!), textiles, knock off bags, Tiffany and Co. Jewelry, Tique wood crafts, etc, etc.

Before I left I looked up how to say how much in Thai, Nee Tao Rai Na(ka or Krub*). This often helps to get a better price. If you use some Thai they assume you are an expat* and not just a Farang* tourist. Often this will help you to get a lower starting price to bargain from. I tested this theory with a Marc Jacobs make-up case. The first booth I went up and asked "How much?" in English. Her starting price was 300 baht. When I went up to another and asked in Thai it was 240 baht. Theory proven.

After an hour or two of wandering around and bargaining I stopped in a cafe to have some dinner. The rule is you go where you see Thai people eating. I ordered a curry soup and people watched. Alone, but content. Next to me was a man drinking beer and chain smoking. On the other side was a Thai couple immersed in each other and nothing more. In front of me where a group of Koreans laughing and enjoying the vibrant atmosphere. My curry just about killed me with heat, but I was paying for it, and had to eat. When the server came to take it away I told her it was hot. She then let me know she had asked the cooks to make it as mild as possible! Looks like I have a long way to go with getting used to both kinds of heat in this country. After my meal and a few beers I decided to negotiate a Tuk Tuk home. They were lined up along the street. When I showed the first driver my address he said "300 baht." I said NO, 200 baht to get here. He replied with "15 clicks on map in Tuk Tuk." So we agreed upon 250.

*Tuk Tuk is a Thai cab (I use the term cab loosely).
*Use Ka for females, and Krab for males.
*Farang refers to a westerner in Thailand. Pronounced Falang
*Expat is short for Expatriate and is a foreigner who lives here.

Photos: Night Bazaar Booths, Thai Couple, View of central part of the Bazaar from where I ate dinner, Tuk Tuks lined up along the street.

Sawadee Ka: The First Week

4:30am Monday morning: I awake feeling pretty good considering. This will not last. I get ready for school only to discover if you don't have ac the few minutes in the shower are your only relief from sweat. I reluctantly ride on Lani's motorbike to a market nearby to be picked up by Emily- PE Teacher, Lawrie- Headmaster, and Lee- New Grade 5 Teacher who arrived Saturday. The motorbike ride was like getting a shot at the doctor- the fear is all in the anticipation. While we waited for the car to pick me up a dog came wandering up to us with it's head literally split open. This has been the hardest thing for me so far. All day I couldn't stop thinking about that dog. Lani offered it a cracker which it ate as we left. Stray dogs are everywhere here. It's hard to tell if they have a care taker. So far they have all been friendly but I don't tempt fate by petting them. There are various organizations that try to help, but the population is huge. I would like to volunteer at "Care for Dogs" which is a shelter. I think I need some more time to adjust though. I can't save them all and I have to live so I can't feed them all either, but it's really tough!

At school I was greeted by friendly faces, and delightful children. My teaching partner's name is Ms. Shafaq. She is from India, and has been at NIS for about a decade. I adore her, and we are a great team so far! The teachers at NIS have been nothing but kind to me. Ms. Lynn came and picked me up for lunch in the Canteen on the first day so I wasn't the awkward "new kid" sitting alone. The food at school leaves something to be desired. It's free for the teachers, but gross most of the time. I keep a cup of noodle in my bag and some dried fruit just in case. Note: This is all I have heard from every teacher at NIS so my expectations for lunch were low to begin with.

I made it until about 11:30am on Monday when my Jetlag hit me like a train and the NIS bus took me back to Lani's. I slept from 2-4:30, ate dinner (Spaghetti, thank you Lani!) and slept again from 7pm- to about 4am.

Tuesday was much better. We took a field trip to Honda. This was already planned before my arrival. The people (as most Thai's are) were very kind, accommodating, and generous. The kids received cookies and ovaltine, and each teacher was presented with a box wrapped in silk and inscribed in Thai.

Our school day is from about 7:30am until 3:30pm. It's a long day, but it is broken up with periods where the children go to different classes- swimming, movement, music, computer, etc. We have lots of built in planning time and my teaching partner is very easy going. Our game plan last week was for me to observe, help out, and get familiar with the curriculum. We split the class into two equal groups at random. We will split into these groups to teach various subjects, but each child will remain in the same class with Ms. Shafaq and myself as their teachers.

By Friday I had my bearings at school, and somewhat of a regular sleep pattern. Missed a few dinners due to a "nap" which just turned in to early bed time. I think my body is more exhausted than I am aware of with all the excitement, so I am trying to let it sleep as much as possible without getting too far off track for a regular sleep cycle.

Wednesday night we went out to dinner- Lani, her brother Robert, his wife Sal, and Their children- one of which is in my class.

It was this perfect Thai dinner on the edge of town complete with an open air covered patio along the river and a fantastic view of the mountains. Heineken flowed freely and we enjoyed each dish over a long period as it came out. I love this country! Unfortunately I had an allergic reaction to the last dish I ate and my body promptly let me know and took care of it by forcing me to throw up. Felt fine after that.
Developed a rash the next day. I have never had food allergies, but this is a different continent so it will take some adjusting.

One great thing about Thailand is you can go into any pharmacy, tell them what's wrong, and they give you something for it. So far every time it has worked. Most pharmacy's have someone who speaks some English and through broken sentences and hand gestures they can diagnose the problem. So far it's been for my back problems, then nausea, and by the end of the week I needed something for the rash. Each time I don't really know what I am taking until I get home and research it, but they have all worked!

On Friday I moved into a room in a full service apartment/ hotel. It's called The Royal Orchid. Ms. Shafaq took me Wed during lunch to look at places near school and this was the third place we went to. It has AC, a king size bed, wireless, full bathroom, a TV with cable (which turned out to be all in Thai with one English channel), and towel service. Most of the women at the desk don't speak any English but they are very kind and have gone out of their way to help me. I like it here. I don't know that I will stay for the whole year, but for now it's close to school- where I spend the majority of my time. It's also a place of my own which feels good. I came here to learn about myself and regain my independence, and this is just the beginning...

Photos: Ms. Shafaq (far right) and our class at Honda, View from parking lot at NIS- rain over the Mountains, A side entrance at NIS. The school is Beautiful! The side road near Lani's, with rice patties everywhere.

Part 1: LA and Arrival

It's Wednesday September 7th around 6pm, my mother is driving me to the airport as I frantically book a one way ticket to LA on my iphone. Last flight out leaves at 7pm and if I do not arrive in LA tonight I will not be getting my visa until next week. Rewind to Tuesday the 6th- finally got my contract from Nakorn Payap International School (NIS) in Chiang Mai to take to the Thai consulate in Portland. Went there only to discover it was closed for the entire week of Labor Day. So I contacted the headmaster at NIS and promptly threw some money at the problem and flew to LA, which is the only other Thai consulate on the US West Coast.

I arrive at the airport and check in to my Southwest Airlines flight at 6:10. Only to discover the connecting flight from PDX to SAC has an hour delay and will not be making it to LA tonight. The woman at the counter stands there staring at her computer screen and endlessly typing... Why do they always do that?! Then as I am trying not to freak out or lose patience she looks at me and says, "There is a flight leaving at 6:34, you have 12 minutes. Run.

So I do. As I get to the gate panting and sweating the agent looks at me and says "Megan?" I nod as he hands me my boarding pass, off I go to LA.

Upon landing around 10:30pm I find a decent hotel for $96/night near the airport, check in and get to sleep.

The next morning I am all business. The consulate in LA accepts Visa applications between 9 and 11:30am, and will process them in 24 hours. In theory this means I will pick up my visa Friday morning and be on the next available flight out to Asia. Well remember that saying I often use, "How do you make God laugh? By making plans..." (Thank you Izza). Yeah, this is one of those times.
I take a $40 cab ride into downtown LA to the consulate. On the way I get to talking with the driver who is from Armenia. He has been in the US for about 7 years and is offering some interesting perspective to someone who is about to be the foreigner. One thing he told me has really stuck. When he first arrived in the US he asked his uncle where are all the people? (He was used to seeing people out and about on the street. His uncle replied "They all live in their cars." Two things really resignated here with me: First, he is right. Second, we see a new place with open eyes and often notice things that others who live there forget about or take for granted.

So he drops me at the Consulate and tells me he can take a 20 min break and if I am in and out quickly I can ride back to the hotel with him for free. (He works for them, so has to return there anyway.) I thank him for his kindness, and hope I will be back in time to take him up on the offer. The bus ride back to the hotel is 2 hours!

I am sure you have already figured out this did not happen. I head upstairs and am greeted by a friendly Thai woman. I tell her what I need, and show her my paperwork. She asks me for my criminal background clearance from Oregon. I say, "what?" I don't have this stupid piece of paper that I need (no one from the school told me, and it's my fault for not doing my homework). SO basically I can only get a tourist Visa with what I have, which does me no good. I am in LA, just spent all this money, the Portland consulate is closed.... You can imagine.

So this sweet older Thai woman who is there for her own purposes offers to take me to the nearest police station. I accept and on the way she offers me bottles of water. So very kind. I get to the LAPD station and tell them what I need. The officer hands me a piece of paper and says, "sorry we can't help you, call this number."

So I walk back to the consulate for about 40 min in 90 degree heat. Did I mention my bag did not arrive in LA with me so I only had my carry on clothes. Dark jeans and a black top. Genius.

It is at this particular point where I almost start to lose my shit. Hot, tired, and not sure this is going to work out. What if I spent all this money only to come to LA for nothing. What if I have to spend the weekend here? Will I still be able to buy a ticket to Thailand? As I am starting to spin I stop myself. "You are a Keach woman. You have been in much worse situations in places that you don't speak the language. This is just the beginning, if you can't figure this out how are you going to survive in SE Asia? Buck up and figure it out. So I did.

I get back to the consulate only to discover the boss man is determined to help me. Through a lot of phone calls and research we discover all I have to do is go online and get my clearance. Ha, who knew?! Easy- seeing as I have no criminal record. It takes 5 minutes and costs $10 bux. He agrees to make the exception and process my Visa same day. Tells me to come back between 3 and 4 and he will have it ready for me. Wanting to kiss him I restrain myself and head around the corner to have some lunch.

I return promptly at 3 pm, sit for about 15 minutes, and off I go Non- Immigrant B Visa in hand.

Long Story short I take a 2 hour bus ride back to The Hotel. The bus driver helps me along the way. We went through every part of LA- Crenshaw, Inglewood, etc. I have two theories about her kindness: Either she was trying to watch my back and help me from getting lost in the wrong part of town. OR she thought I was a complete idiot. Maybe a little bit of both? Either way I made it back to the hotel, ate some Chipotle and prepared to fly out at 1:20pm on Friday to Beijing then to Bangkok and finally Chiang Mai.

The flight all goes smooth. Typical haze of time zone to time zone, and perpetual morning. Spent the night in the Bangkok airport and was greeted by Kate- the NIS assistant principal upon arrival in Chiang Mai. The humidity here hits you like a ton of bricks. She drove me through the city to stay with Lani- NIS Early Childhood Coordinator, and her dog Eddie. We ordered pizza the first night. Exhausted and over- stimulated by my new surroundings I was asleep by 6:30pm.


Photos: Somewhere over Siberia, and Early Morning Bangkok Airport.